Some term it “fusion” or “international.” Robert Fong calls it “East-West Northwest,” a cuisine that blends the flavors of Europe and the Far East with the seasonal foods and sensibilities of the Pacific Northwest. From his travels, sampling foods worldwide, and some 20 years as chef and co-owner of the Pacific Cafe in Bellingham, Washington, Fong developed the art of combining the sweet, the pungent, the aromatic of East and West for a Northwest palate.
Nowadays he shares his unique flavors and techniques at bimonthly cooking classes at Bellingham’s Community Food Co-op. “The process is what is most important,” he explains about preparing food. “Not the seasoning, not the recipe. It’s how you select it and how you handle it.”
Tonight’s “Chef’s Choice” is not your ordinary cooking class, but a veritable banquet of Fong creations, cooked, plated—at times invented on the spot—in front of a group of interested students. For the fourteen class participants, it’s a chance to watch a seasoned chef at work, to pick up a few cooking tips, and to enjoy gourmet food.
Fong starts off with Seven Spice Soy Chicken Wings, a long time “comfort food.” Not a beautiful dish to look at, he warns the class, but one of his favorites. “I probably have eaten this dish a thousand times. I think it’s one of the very best things to eat,” he says. Fong drops chicken wings into a pot of his “magic” seven spice soy sauce and a bit of Scotch whisky, and poaches, never boils, the meat for a simple, tasty appetizer.
A more elegant chicken dish follows: Pan-Fried Garlic Chicken Steamed with Grand Marnier. Fong seasons pieces of chicken breasts with garlic, and prepares a marinade of oyster sauce, soy sauce, five-spice powder, maple syrup, jalapeño peppers, and rosé wine. He dusts the chicken with a little cornstarch and pan-sears the meat with the floured side down. When the chicken is almost done, he pours in Pastis, an anise flavored French liqueur, and Grand Marnier, and quickly steams the meat in the aromatic orange and anise flavors.
The kitchen is also starting to steam as Fong does a chef’s balancing act between the next two dishes: Ginger Prawns and a roast duck, which is heating in the oven. But first the prawns. “Ginger and prawns go together,” Fong says. In this dish a quick marinade of ginger (“a lot of ginger”), maple syrup, soy sauce, garlic, rice vinegar with sugar, chili sauce, and extra virgin olive oil provide a flavorful base. A touch of jalapeño peppers gives the prawns “a dimension that is very, very different.” Fong coats the crustaceans with cornstarch and flour, pan-fries them, and serves them with chili sauce and green onions.
Fong presents another dish from the sea: Lightly Fried Alaskan Halibut with Sweet Chilies and Jalapeños. It’s a simple preparation for fresh halibut, using lemon, local farm eggs with deep yellow yokes, panko (bread crumbs), flour, salt and pepper. He cuts the fish into chunks and dips each piece in beaten egg and the panko coating. Pan-fried in grapeseed oil (Fong’s favorite oil for frying), the fish comes out tender and crunchy. Fong serves it on a splash of sweet chili sauce with lemon juice and jalapeños. “Compare this with fish and chips!” he says.
Roast Duck and Cucumber
Roast Duck and Cucumber, the final culinary creation of Robert Fong's Chef's Choice is plated for tasting.
Finally, the centerpiece of tonight’s culinary tour: Roast Duck and Cucumber. Fong began the duck three days before, marinading it in ginger, garlic, soy sauce, hoisin and sesame oil. In the cavity, he stuffed aromatic herbs such as cilantro, green onions, and ginger to give the bird a “fragrance from the inside out.” Earlier in the day, he roasted the duck and it has been resting for several hours. Now he roasts it in a hot 500 degree oven, reducing the heat to 400ºF after 20 minutes and cooking it for about 45 to 60 minutes total. “You have to get it hot enough to melt the fat under the skin,” he says. When he removes it, it is sizzling and lusciously browned. While the duck rests and cools, Fong drizzles extra-virgin olive oil and salt over raw cucumber slices. He arranges the cucumber on a tray and tops it with slices of juicy roast duck and a squeeze of lemon.
Ginger, soy sauce, and garlic. French Pastis and Grand Marnier. Alaskan halibut and local farm eggs. Lemons and jalapeños. A melding of unique flavors from far and near. It’s East-West Northwest cuisine!
When Robert Fong is not cooking, you can find him teaching martial arts at On Tai Chi:www.ontaichi.com
